Life-changing or Just Staged? The Truth Behind Viral Skincare Trends

Red light therapy, beef tallow, dermaplaning, exfoliating, using a menagerie of toners and having a “morning shed” is all over social media, with influencers promoting their multi-step skincare routines to achieve glass skin. But is any of it real or just a staged video with perfect lighting, filters and thousands of dollars in sponsorships behind the “must-have product” that they swear by? Is it a little bit of both? As more studies are released, dermatologists are determined to verify or debunk all of the skincare trends that have been dominating Instagram and TikTok. 

Red Light Therapy

No doubt you’ve probably seen Instagram influencers wear jarring white masks with a red underglow, claiming the anti-aging properties associated with red light therapy, but how does it work?

Red light therapy is the use of low level red light to attempt to stimulate cell regeneration. According to The Cleveland Clinic, red light therapy has been used in photodynamic therapy to treat skin cancers in the past, but the more recent claims that it reduces wrinkles, fine lines and even acne, have not been fully proven. Most studies on the effectiveness of red light therapy are not fully developed, and while it might benefit users, the negative side effects of the treatment are still unknown. The Cleveland Clinic states that overuse of red light therapy could potentially damage your skin and eyes, so you should always consult a dermatologist if you are considering this treatment.

Beef Tallow

Natural skincare buffs are probably aware of the increasing popularity in using beef tallow on your face in the skincare community, but there have also been questions surrounding if it’s a safe practice. The pro to using beef tallow is that in a world full of single use sheet masks and cotton rounds, it is a sustainable skincare choice. 

In an interview with Women’s Health, dermatologist Geeta Yadav, MD, gives props to beef tallow for it’s natural moisturizing properties,

“Our skin needs fatty acids, since they help support the skin barrier, helping to moisturize and balance the skin while promoting a healthier, smoother, and more youthful appearance,” Dr. Yadav said.

She also brings up the cons of the skincare trend. She points out that it can be irritating to some people’s skin, as certain studies have shown that high concentrations of beef tallow can increase photosensitivity risk and can be agitating to your skin.

Finally lets discuss one of the top skincare products in the past few years: toners. Toners are a water-based product that are used to prime your face for other skincare products that you may apply after, like a moisturizer. Science largely supports the effectiveness of toners, and dermatologist Alok Vij, MD, explains why in an interview with Cleveland Clinic Health Essentials.

“When you apply a toner immediately after cleansing, you’re increasing the water content of that outer layer of skin, which is better for the absorption of additional products afterward,” Dr. Vij said. “It kind of acts like a sponge by helping those other skin care ingredients sink in.”

But in a sea full of toners, which one’s are the best to use? That all depends on the type of skin you have, whether that be acne prone, dry, sensitive or oily. If you have sensitive skin, go for a toner that is fragrance free, and if you have acne prone skin, reach for something with salicylic acid. According to Dr. Vij, “There’s a toner for almost everybody.”

As always, if you’re looking to try out a trendy skincare product that you’ve seen on the internet, be sure to consult your dermatologist before putting anything new on your skin.